So I have been selling some of my dummy inlets, and so far, have been able to keep up with demand. Thank you everyone for your support. This allows me to spend a bit of extra on experiments that may not do anything except teach something. The point is, this stuff costs $$, especially when I buy 7 pins, then drop them on the floor only to find 6… and I can’t finish the project without 7! Which means I need to buy parts again, and pay for shipping again… 🙁
What have I been working on? Well a couple things… I found the near-exact same 240V pins that are used in the Nissan Leaf J1772 inlet! I can tell by the plastic tip that is at the end of the pins. (hint; they are made by Amphenol). The data and ground pins need to be fabricated, but I have an easy way to do those. But that is not what this post is about.. That project got de-prioritized due to bigger and better things.
As I mentioned in my first blog post I am helping with the connector that we hope might have a slight chance at being compatible with the chademo connector on japanese EVs. One of the biggest hurdles for me is the pins. I do not have a machine shop, I am not a machinist, and I don’t have the $$ to get them custom made.
I have come up with a process that I hope is repeatable, that means you at home can attempt this, but what you do afterwards with them is up to you. If/when you blow your self up, it is your own damn fault… remember that. Also remember that this is how I did it, you may choose to use different parts or use different tools. You may want to use a smaller wire, therefor smaller splice connectors, that’s fine, but for testing purposes, I am sticking with 2awg, if we find out that it is overkill, we can try something smaller later.
ON WITH THE SHOW!
- Multipurpose Copper (Alloy 110), 5/16″ Diameter, 3′ Length – mcmaster pn 8966K89
- Formable Brass (Alloy 260), Round Tube, 9 mm OD, 300 mm Length – mcmaster pn 88605K28
- Side-Mount External Retaining Ring (E-Style), Stainless Steel, for 9-12MM Shaft Diameter – mcmaster pn 98317A227
- 2AWG butt splice – digikey PN WM2973-ND
- solder wick (copper braid)
- leaded solder (flows better than non-leaded)
- flux – no-clean prefered
- IPA alcohol to clean
- kapton tape (polyimide tape) or some other form of masking that can survive strong heat.
- vice grips
- cordless drill
- dremel (high speed rotary tool)
- fine grit sand paper
- firm bristle brush
- propane torch
I created a photo stream to illustrate every step I can think of, however it is about 50 pictures, I think that is too much for a blog post, so just click on this first one, and it will take you to my skydrive, there you can scroll through the photos, each has a caption for an explanation. I made 4 pins this way, and it was the fourth one where I took the photos.
One thing I have not done yet is polishing the brass after everything else is done. You would polish it just like any other brass. I am going to use the polishing bit on my dremel and polish compound. This should really make them into a mirror finish! This shouldn’t be done until right before they are put into an enclosure to protect them from further scratches. I have to re-design the 3d printed plug before this will happen.
If you make it to the end of the slide show, there is a photo of something else, kind of a teaser of what else is on the way. 😉